France; Normandy in September

September 2008

Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus) juvenile/1st-winter, St Vaast



Normandy September 2008 GALLERY

Larus Gulls

On our way back to UK via Le Havre, we spent a week birding the Normandy coastline between Cherbourg and Le Havre. We focussed mainly on waders and seabirds, as there’s a distinct shortage of both in our native department, the Vienne! The weather was mostly warm and sunny, the offshore south-westerly winds obviously not producing good sea-watching conditions or passerine migration; however, we did have some luck with seabirds. Waders were hard work, but eventually we found a good fresh to brackish water site, pushing our total to 22 species.
The coastline here is beautiful and generally unspoilt, and in September devoid of tourists apart from those visiting the famous WW2 Normandy landing beaches. Some of these, like Utah Beach, are long and sandy and backed by dunes, recalling north Norfolk, whilst the cliffs, headlands and picturesque harbours towards Cherbourg are more reminiscent of Cornwall. By September the breeding seabirds may have left, but there are some large estuaries and a few freshwater sites to add to overall birding interest here.
Historic sites are everywhere in Normandy, combining birding with visiting the WW2 sites adds another dimension, and if it rains persistently we can recommend Bayeux, with the famous tapestry and superb cathedral.
We again used Jacquie Crozier’s excellent book on birding France [see reference sources], page numbers refer to this book
As ever in coastal France, there is no access to some reserves, presumably to deter illegal hunting, and no totally ‘joined up’ coastal footpath, although long stretches can be walked with caution (hunting)

SITES VISITED

Beauguillot Reserve (page 76)
Just south of Utah Beach where we camped, the reserve comprises a 3km strip of coastal flood meadows, small saltmarsh and beach, all of which is inaccessible! We visited the two public hides overlooking the flood meadows; a coastal footpath going south from the main reserve area is probably good at high-tide

Ponts d’Ouve Reserve (page 74)
This reserve is 10kms inland at Carentan, there is a freshwater lagoon with three hides and a 5.5km circuit, all part of the Cotentin Marshes Regional National Park. We visited the hides but didn’t do the full circuit. A nice reserve that would be good in winter and for odonata in early summer; for us it flattered to deceive in September as water levels were far too high for migrant waders
Currently the reserve centre is being rebuilt and entry is free – check website for opening dates/times to the trail and hides.

Pointe du Hoc (page 78)
Along the coast 25kms east of Carentan, the cliffs here serve as a sombre reminder of the many US servicemen that died trying to secure this strategic headland. Our visit coincided with rain, thousands of tourists, and an offshore wind, so we soon gave up; this site is probably always busy.

St Germain Plage (page 77)
This estuary on the west coast of the Cherbourg peninsula, 30kms from Carentan, is very unspoilt and has a footpath from St Germain Plage to St Germain-sur-Ay, over sand dunes with views across the bay. Even at low tide, walking the beautiful beach here produced good numbers of waders and terns

Pointe de Brevands (page 77)
Undoubtedly the best wader site in the area, with thousands of Dunlin amongst other species present on the rising tide when we visited. However, this being France, even on a Wednesday afternoon it was infested with ‘hunters’ toting long-barrelled guns for shooting ducks and waders.

Utah Beach
This WW2 landing beach where we camped proved moderately good for seawatching, especially for Skuas attracted by the large number of Sandwich Terns

St Vaast-la-Hougue (page 72)
30kms ESE of Cherbourg, the harbour provides good gull and tern watching, particularly when fishing boats come back with a catch. Around the fortress, La Hougue, there’s a very pleasant circular footpath giving views over the bay and the open sea – but beware of stretches of path along top of the ancient wall, in strong winds! The island of Tatihou is accessible by ferry from the harbour and looks worth a high-tide visit.

Pointe de Saire (page 73)
5 kms north of St Vaast, a reasonable seawatch site of low elevation, with waders and gulls on the rocks at low-tide and a convenient municipal campsite

Pointe de Barfleur (page 74)
25 kms east of Cherbourg, 14 kms north of St Vaast, a seawatch site par excellence, even in the unsuitable south-westerly winds that we had. Watching is from the lighthouse

Manneville Reserve (page 84)
About 40 kms east of Le Havre; although on the south side of the River Seine, more easily accessed from the north bank via Tancarville Bridge. Not easy to find, and when found the reserve, tower hide and main lagoon, La Grande-Mare, are all totally inaccessible and now completely fenced off, although there is no hunting allowed either. Viewing over the lagoon is from the tower hide car park, and from another [public] hide 0.5km to the north, not signposted but with a gravel car park next to the road. That said, it is an interesting area to bird, a circuit is possible by car around the protected area, a cider growing region with good habitat for passerines, and unique architecture in the form of timbered houses and barns with thatched roofs and plants growing along the ridge of the thatch – truly bizarre, and worth seeing in itself.

NB; A local birder we met there told us that the Seine estuary area around the Pont de Normandie [page 82] was fairly unsafe due to the aggression shown by ever-present groups of hunters there towards birdwatchers. We went to the Reserve de Gros Banc, Caen, instead.

Brotonne Forest
About 15 kms east of the Manneville public hide. Using the Aire de la Vaquerie parking area, we walked part of the signed Route Forestiere au Loup, through some nice mature woodland, with, unusually, some Beech trees amongst the Oak and conifers.

Reserve de Gros Banc
15 kms north-east of Caen, at the mouth of the Orne estuary. A superb 3.5km trail with 4 hides/blinds including an excellent tower hide hear the entrance car park on route D514. By far the best high-tide wader site we found, the trail skirts the brackish lagoons, also the estuary. We had less than four hours here before boarding the ferry at Le Havre, but definitely worthy of a prolonged visit.

ACCOMMODATION

Utah Beach - Camping Utah Beach

Pointe de Saire – Camping Municipal de Jonville

Honfleur - Camping La Briquerie

REFERENCE SOURCES

A Birdwatching Guide to France North of the Loire. J. Crozier, Arlequin Press, 2000.

Conservatoire du littoral portal to websites covering protected areas on the French coast

Cotentin Marshes Regional National Park

Groupe Ornithologique Normand




SPECIES RECORDED 8/9/2008 to 15/9/2008

BIRDS - 114 species. N = north

SLAVONIAN GREBE Podiceps auritus - 3 La Houge 12/9/08
LITTLE GREBE Tachybaptus ruficollis
GREAT CRESTED GREBE Podiceps cristatus

MEDITERRANEAN SHEARWATER Puffinus mauretanicus - 1 N Pointe de Barfleur 12/9/08, 7 N Pointe de Barfleur 13/9/08
SOOTY SHEARWATER Puffinus griseus - 30+ N Pointe de Saire in small groups, afternoon of 11/9/08
GANNET Sula bassana - Feeding groups present throughout

CORMORANT Phalacrocorax carbo
SHAG Phalacrocorax aristotelis - Max. 5 Pointe de Saire
LITTLE EGRET Egretta garzetta - Max. 200+ Reserve de Gros Banc
GREAT EGRET Egretta alba - 6 Manneville Reserve
GREY HERON Ardea cinerea
SPOONBILL Platalea leucorodia - 26 Reserve de Gros Banc

MUTE SWAN Gygnus columbianus - 2 ads. Manneville Reserve, 2 ads. Reserve de Gros Banc
SHELDUCK Tadorna tadorna - 8 La Hougue, 2 Reserve de Gros Banc
MALLARD Anas platyrhynchos
SHOVELER Anas clypeata - 20+ Manneville Reserve
WIGEON Anas penelope - 2 Beauguillot, 30+ Manneville, 10+ Reserve de Gros Banc
TEAL Anas crecca c10 Beauguillot, - 4+ Manneville Reserve
EIDER Somateria mollisima - 1 juv. St Germain 10/9/08
COMMON SCOTER Melanitta nigra - Groups throughout going north, max. 50+ Utah Beach

OSPREY Pandion haliaetus - 1 ad. Manneville Reserve 14/9/08
MARSH HARRIER Circus aeruginosus - 1 imm. Ponts d’Ouve Reserve, 1 imm. in off sea Pointe de Barfour, 1 imm. Reserve de Gros Banc
HEN HARRIER Circus cyaneus - 2 Beauguillot
COMMON BUZZARD Buteo buteo
SPARROWHAWK Accipiter nisus
KESTREL Falco tinnunculus
HOBBY Falco subbuteo - 1 ad. over Utah Beach 8/9/08

MOORHEN Gallinula chloropus
COOT Fulica atra

OYSTERCATCHER Heamatopus ostralegus
RINGED PLOVER Charadrius hiaticula
KENTISH PLOVER Charadrius alexandrinus - 4 Pointe de Bafleur
GREY PLOVER Pluvialis squatarola - 1 Utah Beach, 5+ St Germain
LAPWING Vanellus vanellus - c20 Ponts d’Ouve, 5+ Reserve de Gros Banc
KNOT Calidris canutus - 2 Utah Beach, 5+ Pointe de Brevands, 2 La Hougue; mostly juvs.
SANDERLING Calidris maritima
TURNSTONE Arenaria interpres
DUNLIN Calidris alpina - 1500+ at Pointe de Brevands
CURLEW SANDPIPER Calidris ferruginea - 2 juvs. Reserve de Gros Banc
WOOD SANDPIPER Tringa glareola - 1 juv. Ponts d’Ouve Reserve
GREEN SANDPIPER Tringa ochropus - 4 Ponts d’Ouve, 1 juv. Reserve de Gros Banc
COMMON SANDPIPER Actitis hypoleucos - Freshwater sites and coastal
REDSHANK Tringa totanus - 2 Pointe de Brevands, c5 La Hougue, 10+ Reserve de Gros Banc
SPOTTED REDSHANK Tringa erythropus - c3 Reserve de Gros Banc
GREENSHANK Tringa nebularia - 1 Reserve de Gros Banc
BLACK-TAILED GODWIT Limosa limosa - 2 juvs. Reserve de Gros Banc
BAR-TAILED GODWIT Limosa lapponica - 4 St Germain, 6+ Reserve de Gros Banc
CURLEW Numenius arquata - Small numbers seen throughout
WHIMBREL Numenius phaeopus - 1 Pointe de Saire, 6 La Hougue, 7+ Reserve de Gros Banc
SNIPE Gallinago gallinago - 1 over campsite Equemauville, 4+ Reserve de Gros Banc
RUFF Philomachus pugnax - 5 juvs. Reserve de Gros Banc

GREAT SKUA Stercorarius skua - 1 Pointe de Barfleur 12/9/08, 2 off Le Havre 15/9/08
POMARINE SKUA Stercorarius pomarinus - 1 ad. with full ‘spoons’ Utah Beach 8/9/08, 1 juv. with 3 Arctic Skuas, Utah Beach 10/9/08
ARCTIC SKUA Stercorarius parasticus - 1 8/9, 2 9/9, and 3 10/9/08 Utah Beach, 1 juv. 12/9/08, 1 juv. 13/9/08 Pointe de Barfleur

BLACK-HEADED GULL Larus ridibundus
COMMON GULL Larus canus - Quite widespread on beaches, 30+ Reserve de Gros Banc
MEDITERRANEAN GULL Larus melonocephalus - Occasionals seen, 159 counted Pointe de Saire beach 11/9/08
HERRING GULL Larus argentatus
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL Larus michahellis - 10+ adults Reserve de Gros Banc
LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL Larus fuscus - Both graellsii and intermedius noted
GREAT BLACK-BACKED GULL Larus marinus
KITTIWAKE Rissa tridactyla - 1 juv. off Le Havre 15/9/08

SANDWICH TERN Sterna sandvicensis - Max. count 1000+ Reserve de Gros Banc at high-tide
COMMON TERN Sterna hirundo - Small groups usually passing offshore
ARCTIC TERN Sterna paradisaea - 3 (2 juvs, 1 ad.) St Germain with Common Terns 10/9/08
BLACK TERN Chlidonias niger - 1 juv. Pont d’Ouve, up to 3 usually in St Vaast harbour

GUILLEMOT Uria aalge - 1 Pointe de Barfleur 12/9, 1 off Le Havre 15/9/08

WOOD PIGEON Columba palumbus
COLLARED DOVE Streptopelia decaocto

TAWNY OWL Strix aluco - 1 Utah Beach campsite, 1 Equemauville campsite
LITTLE OWL Athene noctua - 1 near Manneville Reserve

KINGFISHER Alcedo atthis - On beaches as well as freshwater sites
GREEN WOODPECKER Picus viridis - 2 near Manneville Reserve

SKYLARK Alauda arvensis - Small flocks along the coast

SWALLOW Hirundo rustica
HOUSE MARTIN Delichon urbica - Only 2 on passage

MEADOW PIPIT Anthus pratensis - Small flocks along coast
WHITE WAGTAIL Motacilla alba
YELLOW WAGTAIL Motacilla flava - 2 St Germain

WREN Troglodydes troglodytes
DUNNOCK Prunella modularis
ROBIN Erithacus rubecula
BLACK REDSTART Phoenicarus ochuros - 2 near Manneville Reserve
WHEATEAR Oenanthe oenanthe - Good numbers on passage along coast
WHINCHAT Saxicola rubetra - 1 juv. Manneville Reserve
STONECHAT Saxicola torquata
SONG THRUSH Turdus philomelus - Common on campsites
MISTLE THRUSH Turdus viscivorus - 1 near Manneville Reserve
BLACKBIRD Turdus mirula

BLACKCAP Sylvia atricapilla
WHITETHROAT Sylvia communis - 2+ near Manneville Reserve
ZITTING CISTICOLA Cisticola juncidis
CETTI’S WARBLER Cettia cetti
REED WARBLER Acrocephelus scirpaceus
CHIFFCHAFF Phylloscopus collybita

PIED FLYCATCHER Ficedula hypoleuca - 1 Brotonne Forest 14/9/08

GREAT TIT Parus major
BLUE TIT Parus caerulens
LONG-TAILED TIT Aegithalos caudatus
NUTHATCH Sitta europea - 1 near Manneville Reserve
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER Certhia brachydactyla - 3+ Brotonne Forest 14/9/08

MAGPIE Pica pica
JAY Garrulus glandarius
JACKDAW Corvus monedula
ROOK Corvus frugilegus
CARRION CROW Corvus corone corone
STARLING Sturnus vulgaris

HOUSE SPARROW Passer domesticus
CHAFFINCH Fringilla coelebs
LINNET Carduelis cannabina - Some large flocks on coast
GOLDFINCH Carduelis carduelis
GREENFINCH Carduelis chloris
SERIN Serinus serinus - 1 Pointe de Saire
CIRL BUNTING Emberiza cirlus

BUTTERFLIES

SMALL WHITE Artogeia rapae
GREEN-VEINED WHITE Artogeia mannii
SMALL TORTOISESHELL Aglais urticae - 1 Utah Beach 8/9/08
COMMA Polygonia c-album
RED ADMIRAL Vanessa atalanta
PEACOCK Inachis io
SMALL HEATH Coenonympha tullia
SPECKLED WOOD Pararge aegeria

OTHER OBSERVATIONS

BLUE-TAILED DAMSELFLY Ischnura elegans - Only at Ponts d’Ouve Reserve
MIGRANT HAWKER Aeshna mixta - Fairly common throughout
SOUTHERN HAWKER Aeshna cyanea - 1 male Brotonne Forest
COMMON DARTER Sympetrum striolatum - Very common throughout
SCARLET DARTER Crocothemis erythraea - 4 males Ponts d’Ouve Reserve

MOLE CRICKET Gryllotalpa gryllotalpa - 1 Manneville Reserve 14/9/08

FOX Vulpes vulpes
RABBIT Oryctolagus cuniculus
HARE Lepus europaeus
COYPU Myocastor coypus
BEECH MARTIN Martes foina

COMMON FROG (probable) Rana temporaria - Ponts d’Ouve Reserve